Food “Chinese cuisine is world famous. Chinese people enjoy cooking. In the three million square mile land that hosts over 50 minority groups, traditional recipes have been passed down for hundreds of years, and new dishes keep appearing. For hundreds of years, however, Chinese people have also been haunted by famine from either natural or political causes.

Mr. Kaijun Li City: Dongping Province: Shandong Birth: Feb 7, 1970 Map of China (29KB JPG)

“Chinese cuisine is world famous. Chinese people enjoy cooking. In the three million square mile land that hosts over 50 minority groups, traditional recipes have been passed down for hundreds of years, and new dishes keep appearing. For hundreds of years, however, Chinese people have also been haunted by famine from either natural or political causes.

“Although the food problem was basically solved by the end of the 1960s, people were still far from being able to enjoy their food. The Cultural Revolution in China (late 1960s and 70s) eliminated all private businesses, including thousands of wonderful restaurants featuring regional flavors. At that time, delectable Chinese dishes could be found anywhere in the world but mainland China. Even though, with the appearance of economic reforms, the ban on small business was lifted in the early 1980s, changes were slow due to uncertainties about the fast-changing politics.

“When I left for graduate study in the U.S. in 1992, the restaurant business was still relatively quiet. This was why I experienced a delightful ‘cultural shock’ when I returned to China in the summer of 1995. Together with an American friend, Nancy, I took a two-week trip from Beijing to southern China. Everywhere we went, there were wonderful foods—most impressively in small affordable family restaurants. These restaurants all had cozy environments and hospitable hosts. The owners were working harder than ever, and more importantly, were happier than ever under the new free-market economy. What they earned was mostly theirs to keep; their hard work was paying off. Competition was intense, so every restaurant has its own unique features to attract customers.

“These small businesses are an important part of the economy not only for the services they provide, but also for their function in utilizing the large labor supply in China. In big cities, the restaurant business absorbs the overflow of people from government-run factories; in the countryside, they absorb farmers who are freed from their lands. With the world’s largest population, China used to require 80% of the people to farm (crops and livestock) in order to feed the nation. Improved farming techniques are allowing more people to go into the service industry.

“Who are the restaurants’ customers? Tourists for the most part. Domestic and internationl business travel is increasing. With growing incomes, more people are enjoying the fruits of their hard work by travelling to scenic areas, experiencing things they could only see on television a few years ago. People from the local areas are also eating out more. Home used to be the only place for meals, but with the faster pace of life, people find it more convenient to dine right across the street from their workplace. Restaurants also provide the perfect environment for entertaining guests. The food and dirty dishes are taken care of, and karaoke systems are usually available.

“Changes are not only seen on the street but also in family meals. In Beijing, Chengdu (Sichuan Province), and Shanghai, we had some opportunities to stay with different families. The variety of food on the dinner tables was very impressive. Dishes that I had never seen while growing up are now becoming common. Vegetables and meats that were hard to find a few years ago are in abundant supply at the farmers’ markets. People are not only eating more, they are eating a greater variety of foods.

“China is changing. Despite the talk about problems with copyrights and human rights, China is moving in a very promising direction. The change from being barely able to feed the ‘Kitchen God,’ to the pursuit of variety and quality, is surely one telling example.