Taste of Paris

Food Fare

by Christine Barbour

February 12, 2003

True confessions: I am a sucker for those pastel-colored little heart candies with the snappy love notes stamped on them. Come January I am scanning the shelves for those sugary little harbingers of Valentine's Day.

Dig me. Be Mine. Oh baby. They R 4 me. 

It's not just the candy I like, although candy is always good. It's the whole idea of Valentine's Day - a day devoted to extravagant gestures toward the ones we love. That these gestures more often than not revolve around food is telling. Music may be the food of love, as Shakespeare suggested, but I think, really, food is the food of love - it is so often present at its celebration, and sharing it can be such an act of intimacy, warmth and connection. 

In our lives, my husband's and mine, Valentine's Day is the holiday of choice, observed with a well-loved food tradition that began in 1988, the year we decided to spend Valentine's Day in Paris - with the kids. We were on sabbatical in England at the time, living with my husband's two teenage daughters. British food in those days was almost as bad as all the jokes said it was. We'd had our fill of rock hard Brussels sprouts, overcooked meat and boozy trifle. French cuisine was just a bus ride away and in February the sweetheart deals abounded. So we bought our tickets and set off for Paris, acquiring a habit that would prove hard to break.

That inaugural Valentine's weekend in Paris was not an unmitigated success. Daughter Number 1, in all the adolescent angst of her 16 years, found Paris a bore, frequently and loudly wished we had gone to Madrid instead, dragged us into McDonald's for lunch, and finally took herself off for a solo day trip to Versailles. The rest of us sighed in relief and turned our attention to Paris.

As it happens, all the clichés are true. Paris may very well be the most lovely, romantic city in the world, the gray-green Seine carving a channel through the ancient streets, pedestrian bridges giving one an unobstructed view up and down the river, where boats bob along the concrete banks and imperial buildings and fanciful spires rise beyond them. 

We walked miles and miles, stopping to stare in patisserie windows at tiny tarts and dazzling cream cakes, their glazed blueberries and raspberries outshining London's crown jewels; eating crepes on the street, filled with sharp gruyere cheese; sampling real French, french fries, learning for the first time how good they can be when you fry them twice; and rewarding a climb to the top of Montmartre with a cone of sublime chocolate and hazelnut ice cream. 

Our few forays into restaurants were scrumptious, belying the warnings of our British tour guide who had whiled away the hours on the bus instructing us how to order our meat "biencuit," or "well done." When we tasted the steak frites (medium rare, merci beaucoup) with a rich tarragony sauce Béarnaise, and the steamed mussels in their garlicky winy broth, three quarters of us became Francophiles on the spot. Even Daughter Number 1, returned from her solitary expedition in a more conciliatory mood, allowed as how Paris wasn't the worst place on Earth (though not a patch on Spain).

We settled for that.

We went back to England, with its Marmite and mushy peas, and not too long after that to the States, but the taste of Paris lingered. 

A year or two after our return, the airline we fly most often was running a two-for-one February Paris special. Incredibly, it would cost us only $250 each to go. We went, just my husband and I this time. 

It lacked the dramatic edge of our first visit, and we missed the girls, but it was good. So good that I started to seek out the February deals, snapping them up when they were there, and rationalizing why we should go anyway when they weren't. The kids, off living their own lives, didn't come with us again, but other friends did, and siblings, nieces, and cousins. 

It turned out that February was a great time to visit Paris. The weather wasn't too bad, often giving us vivid blue skies and crisp cold air. 

It was cheap, or relatively so, the hoards of tourists who wanted to visit Paris in the warmer months not yet arrived to drive up the prices. There were no lines for museums, hotels had vacancies, and all the stores were having sales. 

And the food, oh the food! If the ripe summer crops of eggplant, tomatoes, melons and peaches were not yet in the markets, there were early spring compensations. Scrambled eggs with black truffles, warming beef daubes, pungent cheeses, and caramelized apple tarte Tatin with crème fraiche. No, we didn't miss summer much, on our mid-winter breaks to Paris.

Almost before we knew what had happened, we'd spent nearly 10 Valentine's Days in Paris, going just for a long weekend, braving jet lag for the pleasure of staying at the same family-run hotel (where they sometimes greeted us with a "welcome home"), strolling the heart-wrenchingly beautiful streets by the river, going to cozy romantic restaurants, buying flowers, olives, bread, cheese and wine in the markets on the rue de Buci, and having glorious picnics in our room.

Sometimes it snowed and we would shiver and sit in snug cafes. Sometimes it felt like spring and we would watch children sail boats in the pond at the Jardindu Luxembourg. Always it was wonderful, a precious few days carved out of a life that got busier and busier at home in Bloomington

Often as we walked and savored the city (especially when we passed a McDonald's) we reminisced about the first visit. Daughter Number 1 fighting her way into adulthood with so much passion, Daughter Number 2, content to be a child for a few more years, each finding a Paris that she could make her own. 

"We have to come back with the kids," we'd say, but then we thought of the expense, and the kids' hectic schedules, and it never quite happened. No doubt they would return some day, but it was looking increasingly unlikely that it would be with us. 

By 1998 one daughter was engaged, and the other was just about to be. My husband and I had wrapped up a huge project, an 800-plus-page textbook on American politics that had consumed six years of our lives.

It was time to celebrate all sorts of things, the finished book, yes, but also the milestones in the girls' lives and the young men they were proposing to bring into the family. 

Reluctant to declare the days of family vacations finally behind us, we rashly de ided to do it. Their Christmas presents that year were guidebooks, airplane tickets, and hotel reservations, with Valentine's dinner for six booked at a restaurant on top of the EiffelTower.

It turns out you can go home again, at least when Paris is the home you want to go back to. 

Reintroducing the kids to the city they hadn't seen for ten years, watching them starry eyed in love with their guys, feasting in a restaurant that overlooked the City of Lights, all a sparkle, reliving and teasing and loving and laughing - it was the very best weekend of a very good bunch. 

And just in time, as it turns out. Two weddings came in rapid succession, and then one darling grandbaby, and another one on the way. 

The girls are as happy as can be, and so are we. A couple of decades from now, they'll start to know for themselves that painful mixture of love and pride, regret and nostalgia that comes with an emptying nest. 

And maybe, about then, they'll finally be free for another trip to Paris with the folks. In the meantime, don't look for us come Valentine's Day. We won't be home.

Share your thoughts on this week's column with Christine Barbour via e-mail at barbour@heraldt.com. She's also still looking for your nominations for the best french fry in town.

Next week, Food Fare teammate Jennifer Piurek will report on the meal served by Food Works, which provides fresh, home cooked meals for busy families.

Tarte Tatin

Despite the complicated sounding directions, this tart, named for the Tatin sisters who made it popular, is just a dish of caramelized apples covered with a layer of pastry, baked, and then flipped over so that the apples are on top, crust on the bottom.  Simple though it is, it tastes like much more than the sum of its parts.

This homey, rustic tart is especially delicious with a dollop of thick crème fraiche or sour cream

Note: Many tartetatin recipes call for arranging the apples in semicircles until they fill the pan, and then caramelizing them without stirring them about so they hold their ordered pattern. If you want this more formal effect, you must cook the apples on the stove in the same pan in which they go into the oven (a special tarteTatin pan, or in a skillet that goes from stove top to oven). Melt the butter and sugar, arrange the apples quarters over the caramel in circular patterns, wedging them in tightly. Cook over medium high heat, watching carefully, without stirring. As apples shrink in cooking, tuck new ones into empty spaces. When caramel is dark brown and apples are cooked (35-45 minutes), cover with pastry and bake for 30 minutes until crust is golden brown. Flip over as recipe instructs.

1 recipe Sweet Pastry (see below)

1 cup sugar

1 stick butter

8 medium apples (about 4½ pounds)

crème fraiche (often available at Sahara Mart or Bloomingfoods), sour cream

or sweetened whipped cream as you prefer

Note: Apples will cook down, so peel more than you think you need. Choose firm, tart apples -soft watery fruit will disintegrate in cooking.

Prepare sweet pastry and chill for a least 1 hour, or overnight.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Peel and core apples and cut into quarters.

Melt sugar and butter in a deep 12-inch skillet or frying pan. Add apples and stir to coat. Cook over medium heat about 45 minutes until apples are well caramelized. You want them to turn a deep mahogany brown color, but not to burn. Keep a close eye on them, since they can quickly go from brown to burned

When apples are brown and caramelized, move them to a 10- inch oven proof tart pan (or keep them in the same skillet or pan if it is oven proof). If you are moving them, work quickly because the caramel hardens as it cools.

Roll out the pastry to a 12-inch circle between two sheets of parchment paper. Peel top layer of paper off, place pastry over tart, and peel off remaining paper. Tuck the dough in along the edges so that the apples are nestled snuggly inside.

If your baking dish is very full, place a cookie sheet underneath to catch bubbling juices and caramel. Bake in a 425 degree oven until crust is golden brown, approximately 25-30 minutes.

When tart is cooked, remove from oven. Unmold it immediately so apples do not stick. Place a large heat-proof platter face down on top of the tart and with oven mitts or heavy hot pads, hold baking dish and plate together.

Quickly flip the entire thing over, so tart is upside down on platter. Let it rest a few seconds, and tart should settle onto platter on its own. Loosen crust with a knife if it sticks, and replace any apples that have stuck to the pan. 

Serve warm or at room temperature with a dollop of crème fraiche, sour cream, or sweetened whipped cream if you prefer.

Sweet Pastry

1½ c. all purpose flour

2 tablespoons. sugar

½ teaspoon salt

¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) sweet (unsalted) butter, chilled and cut into small

pieces

3 tablespoons ice water (the amount you need will vary with the humidity of

the air and the dryness of the flour)

In the bowl of a food processor, whirl flour, sugar, and salt until blended.

Add butter and process briefly until butter is the size of pea-sized crumbs.

Add ice water, one tablespoon at a time, until dough starts to gather together. Stop processing, turn dough out onto waxed paper or cooking parchment, and gather lightly together into a disk. Wrap loosely with paper and refrigerate for at least one hour or overnight. 

Note: Over-processing or over-handling the pastry dough will make it tough.

Serves eight to 10