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April 9, 2003

The Perfect French Fry

Potatoes, preferably older starchy russets
 
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Peanut oil (or shortening, lard, canola oil, your choice)

Salt and pepper, ketchup, mayonnaise, whatever you crave on your fries

Peel the potatoes, if you choose to, and cut them into strips, approximately 1/4- 3/8-inch square. You can use a sharp knife, a mandoline, one of the good, plastic based kitchen slicers, or even an old fashioned Veg-o-matic (it slices, it dices, and it's still available on eBay) to achieve the perfect shape.

Soak the fries in cold water to remove the starch. I understand that refrigerating them for a couple of hours will make them crispier, but I have not actually put this to the test.

Drain fries and dry completely. Use lots of paper towels, and get them dry  otherwise the water will splatter a lot when it hits the hot oil.

Heat the oil to 325 degrees and add fries. don't crowd them, you will throw off the oil temperature if you add too many at once, and they will also stick together. Cook in several batches rather than one crowded one.

When fries are limp and have lost that stark white potatoey color (but are not yet really turning gold), 3-5 minutes, pull them out and drain on a rack. If you leave them on paper towels, they will be sitting in oil. You can leave them at room temperature for several hours.
 
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When you are ready to eat, heat the oil to 375 degrees. Again, add the fries in batches. Since they are already cooked inside, this frying stage can be quick (2-3 minutes) if the oil is really hot. Don't fry them too long, however, or the fluffy interior will dry out. Shortly after that they will burn.

Drain them, season immediately with salt and pepper, and you are in french fry bliss. If you want to be in true Belgian fry bliss, try eating them with mayonnaise instead of ketchup. This enables you to make up for any health savings you accrued by not frying the potatoes in lard, and it really tastes great.

Note: It is easy to make french fries in an electric deep fryer. I especially like the spiffy newer ones with excellent temperature control, a fry basket that drains over the hot oil, and the capacity to store used oil (for frequent fryers). But excellent fries can also be made on top of the stove in a heavy pot or Dutch oven. If you choose this route, use a deep frying thermometer. You may be able to judge when the oil is ready by looking at it, but if you miscalculate, your fries will be greasy or burned.


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