Traveler’s Diary

 

Wednesday, June 11 

Hello – I have the honor of being the first journal entry. I am not sure that I can do it justice. My arrival story however is a bit unbelievable so I was given the journal 1st.  I left my home Chagrin Falls (Cleveland) at 7:00 am my flight to Chicago scheduled to leave at 9:30. Things were going really well – I was double checked at security.  It all started when we boarded 40 min into a 50 min flight we were told that our plane has been put into a holding pattern because the President of the US was landing in Chicago – O.k. fine. 20 min. later the pilot gets on the speaker & tells us we are returning to Cleveland to refuel! Yes, can you believe it? We flew back to Cleveland to refuel! We refueled and sat on the tarmac for 20+ min. We finally got back into the air – about 2 hours late. When we got back into the air everything went as planned. I landed in Chicago – got my luggage & headed to the Hilton for our EASC meeting. We met together to discuss final points in the itinerary books and curriculum projects. We had our first evening together dinner and thanks to John, sake - my first ever.  – Sam

 

Thursday, June 12 

Flight to Tokyo JAL – 12.55 hrs. I will turn this over to another member of our team – very excited can’t wait! – Sam

 

Thursday, June 12 

The phone rang; I had no idea where I was. When I recollected myself, I realized the wake up call was 30 min too early. My roommate jumped out of bed, took a shower and changed. When she got out, she noticed it was only 6:12am! Zzzz… - Leila

 

Thursday, June 12 

What a day! First my “roomie” Sam, shook up security this morning at 6:00 a.m. by setting off the alarm on the stairwell in the Hilton! She was getting her exercise after her morning stretch by running up and down the stairs! Both of us woke up this morning about 4 a.m. and could not go back to sleep! I adjusted my suitcase for the 25th time after laying in bed remembering I had forbidden scissors and nail file in my carry-on. Not a good idea. I transferred them to my checked luggage, which they thoroughly stirred up after my “perfect pack” during inspection. I even saw the guy trying to take my curling iron apart and open every bag and parcel! Steve and Leila had their scissors confiscated! – Our flight has been pretty smooth – Only a few bumps – However, mass exodus to the back window when Mary and I began to take much awaited pictures of Alaska. All was closed up – people were napping – my eyes had been focused on the map screen just waiting for the mountains, snow, and glaciers to appear. I had to wake up Jenny as she grumbled a bit. She and Leila were not eager to move as I dragged out of the row. The scenery was absolutely spectacular with every changing pattern, swirls, and tiny pools of blue water in the midst of iced rivers and fields of snow – As we gasped and snapped with light glowing through the windows at the back of the plane, we triggered attentions of the students’ group on the back from Michigan and it grew from there. We were all taking turns snapping photos and alerting others as to what they were missing. We ran from side to side as the views differed from inland to coastline. – Nancy

 

Saturday, June 14

I took the journal for this day thinking that I would have much to write about because we were visiting so many places. What I failed to consider was that busy schedule did not leave any quiet time to write in the journal. So it is now Sun. morning and I need to get a quick review of the day in here before we start another packed day. We started the day with background info from Mike and Anne so we could soak up the most from day. Our tour of the government towers got us off to a steamy start, as it was over cast & humid. We had a limited view from the observation deck but it got better. Luckily the gift shop & snack bar were open. We’ve learned that these tourist spots have a stamp you can use to validate your visit.

            By subway we then headed to the Edo Museum. We are learning. The Museum was mammoth. There were all kinds of miniature replicas of villages, homes, & scenes from sections of the old city. The detail of such small things made these replicas very interesting. Everything was there from the grandeur of the palace life to the simplest tools used in farming. And once again the gift shop held our attention the longest. From the museum we got back on the subway & headed for Kabuki Theatre. Everything was so well organized - headphones, lunches, etc. – that we just walked in & enjoyed. It was quite an experience. I was glad we had the headphones to explain events. The performance was 2 plays – one of one act that was a good length. The second was 3 acts and that really did us in. Some of us bailed after the one act and those of us that stayed for the 2 and 3 slept through most of it. There was not much energy left upon our return. Early to bed to prepare for Sunday.  – Mary

 

Sunday, June 15

Greetings! Well, first I will share a funny experience.  We were all purchasing subway tickets and after I bought mine I was putting my change away. I dropped a few coins and I made a sarcastic remark to the lady next to me (thinking it was a member of our group). I said, “Hey, get away from my money.” Needless to say this was embarrassing and difficult to explain my intent. (I think she understood my comment.) Oh well.

            Number #11, (Mike Robinson) where are you? Mike and I were browsing in the Yasukuni Shrine Museum and were talking about how we needed to be back at 4:00, so I proceeded, I think Mike forgot (:  (Mike, you owe us 6 minutes. 6 minutes past the 5 minute rule).

            The evening concluded with a few of us (Sam, Nancy, Jenny) going to a nearby pub close to the Washington Hotel in Tokyo. We had a very nice time.

            I really enjoyed the visit to the Meiji Shrine, The Imperial Palace East Garden, and the Yasukuni Museum. I really wish we had more time to spend at Yasukuni, it is loaded with artifacts and a must see! The supermarket tour is a great experience to include into the trip. Thanks for a great day leaders. I would really like to discuss the fish market visit but it is not my day and I will leave that to Rich.  – Steve

 

 

Monday, June 16

            This is our free day and I’m looking forward to seeing a lot of sights but also relaxing the pace and just hanging out so to speak.

            Our day started at 4:30 in the morning as John, Steve, Sam, Nancy and I went to TC Central Wholesale Market. It was amazing to see this frenzy of activity as people were loading and unloading fish to go to local restaurants & grocery stores. It seemed to be a study in mass confusion but somehow it all works. I would have to say that the highlight was watching the tuna, both fresh & frozen carved up in various pieces. The tuna was as big as us and weighed a couple of hundred pounds. Using a saw knife, which had to be 4-5 feet long, and a band saw, the tuna was quickly and effectively carved up.

            After breakfast, I decided to slow down the pace somewhat and checked out two dept. stores around the train station. To describe these stores as massive would be an understatement. As interesting and as comprehensive as the stores are, I think they are a testimony to the affluence and prosperity of Japan in the 80’s and 90’s. Japan does not take a back seat to other nations.

            On the way back I stopped at McDonald’s for a Big Mac Value Meal, which I had to admit, was damn good. It had a good “mouth feel” which was strongly needed at the time.

            We ended the day by going to the baseball game. What an experience! Between the cheering crowds, the beer vendors with the mini-keg on their backs and to the bad English songs, it made a definite impression. Thanks to John for making the day happen – it was very much appreciated.

             Well! We are getting up early to go to Kyoto so I’m signing off. – Rich

 

 

Tuesday, June 17

            I just came back to our room in the Gion Yoshi-ima Ryokan dying of thirst to find a fresh pitcher of cold water. I love the service in Japan. People go out of their way to make you feel welcome. Yesterday, my friend’s parents took Kathy and me to their home and prepared an absolutely awesome meal, gave us gifts, presented a tea ceremony for us and honored us with visits to old friends’ establishments – gold fish farm, glass blowers and Bonsai museum. We felt like royalty.

            Today Nancy and I arrived at the hotel, went to our room and collapsed on the cushion seats and couldn’t get up. A young woman came in with tea, which we were enjoying when she came in time after time with one course after another. While we went and took showers she cleared and removed the tables and made up the futons – always with a big smile on her face.

            The Japanese people also know how to travel. What a great idea the Shinkansan is  – so clean so comfortable and so fast. One minute I was watching the rice zoom by, and the next minute we were there. We split up to see what we wanted while Mary graciously sat in the coffee shop and enabled us (watched our luggage). We visited the Heian Shrine, the museum of art and the crafts center. We then took a scenic and perhaps circuitous route to the hotel by foot.

            After dinner this evening we witness a condensed tea ceremony and then toured the building. Our guide showed us a typical family Buddhist room. Every day the family is responsible for putting fresh rice, tea and a piece of fruit for the dead on the alter. She told us that her grandmother loved beer, so she often puts a glass of beer there. – Barb

 

Wednesday, June 18

            It rained all day! After checking out of the Gion-Yoshiima we spent the day seeing all the major temples in Kyoto. The first site we visited was actually Nijo-jo castle. We took off our shoes to tour the national historic site (Kyoto is a very historical because many buildings were never destroyed during WWII). The floors squeaked because the shoguns wanted to hear intruders.

            Our guide gave a very good description and explanation of the history and significance of the castle.

            We visited the Ryoan Temple, which had a fabulous rock garden and gardens. Our lunch consisted of tofu and shojin cuisine. It was very great but my legs hurt from sitting on the floor.

            We continued to visit Buddhist temples, which were also well visited by Japanese school children.

            Even though it rained all day, the rain seemed to create a peaceful sense to the day and since we were visiting many Buddhist temples, it seemed right.

            We had a Western style dinner tonight, which many of us seemed relieved to have. Japanese food is so different from our pioneer/western/ one meal in a pot cooking. The flavors are very different – salty but sometimes bland. I am looking forward to my free day tomorrow and Gion corner in the evening. – Jenny

 

Thursday, June 19

            Barb and I spent the day together. This was our free day and it was especially rewarding. The rain passed over and it was hazy and humid. We bought daylong bus passes and had a wonderful experience learning to negotiate the bus system. We saw many interesting sights merely walking between bus stops and the places we were headed to. Many kind people helped us find the correct stop, bus # or building. In one case an elderly man walked up and asked us if we needed help. He walked us clear to the stop and told us what bus to take. I was amazed it zigzagged clear across the city from the northwest to south at Kyoto station. Our first stop was the National Museum. I really enjoyed the collection. They have a wide variety of exhibits, not just Japanese, but from all of East Asia. The jomon collection was very interesting: there were pottery and points from early, middle, and late periods. Then there was a shell mound exhibit that reminded me of our own shell mound cultures. The yayoi collection included metal work. I enjoyed the wide variety of pottery, including various glazes like celadon.  The calligraphy, painting, swords, and sculptures were all fascinating. There were some especially awe-inspiring Buddhist icons. The craft center was very interesting, almost an exhibit. They had a wide variety of high quality crafts to enjoy looking at. We also went to the English language bookstore. There we were able to buy a few books on animals and also how to draw them. I could have easily spent an entire day relaxing and reading in there. We hurried on to the highlight of our day at Ritsumeikan University. There we visited the Kyoto Museum for World Peace. Their mission was to “convey the tragic reality of war, to illustrate the efforts of those who were opposed to war, and to provide an understanding of the importance of establishing peace.” “We must remain alert to the dangers of suppression of the freedom of thought and expression. By helping our youth, understand our history, we hope to make sure we don’t repeat the mistakes of the past.” The exhibit were categorized as follows: Japan’s “15 Year War” Realities and Casualties, the General Mobilization Structure and suppression of freedom of thought and academic pursuits, day-to-day life during WWII, Japanese anti-war activities, occupied areas, air raids, the Battle of Okinawa, the Atomic Bomb, WWII and the war responsibilities and then war and peace since 1945. I was pleased at how much interpretation of the exhibits in English there was. A video of life in Japan during wartime, displays of propaganda and thought control, and opposition to the war were the most striking to me. Although the museum is small, it is perhaps the highlight of the trip so far for me. This is because it helped consolidate and bring to life the many books, movies, etc. that I have learned from. I feel I have a lot to take back to my kids not only in teaching about the war, but also in my place education curriculum. I am both saddened and inspired from the experience. Later in the evening we went to Gion Corner for a nice sampling of traditional art. Now we are off to Himeji!  In Peace  - Kathy 

 

 

Friday, June 20

            We took several trains today to get from Kyoto to the Himeji Castle and Hyogo Prefectural Museum of History and then on to Hiroshima. As usual everyone shared a variety of snacks, some appreciated more than others. Nancy’s chocolate covered puffs – “raisins” and Anne’s cinnamon cookies are tied for first I believe. It’s so nice how everyone in this group shares so generously – except when it comes to the western style bathrooms and then the competition is almost vicious.

            Things are getting more interesting. Leila found her red book in Mike’s suitcase and Mike attempted to stick a sticker on John’s back while waiting for those amazing trains that fly through the stations like… bullets! We’ve graduated to counting off in Japanese – at least some of us some of the time.

            The photo opportunities from the top of the castle were fantastic and the okonomiyaki at Mitchan in Fukuya Department Store was delicious. I’m tempted to try making some at home but John says it’s not as easy as it looks.  - ?

 

Sunday, June 22

            I shouted that I was changing clothes, but my host mother swung the door wide open. Good thing it was not true, as I had just finished. She had more presents for me and wanted to remind me of our outing with her grandchildren.

            Today we saw Iwakuni Castle. The ride on the cable car was super and the view was spectacular. We rode for a long smooth ride, and then walked on the edge of a passage that curled around a big hill. Finally we reached the castle. As I posed for photos, I looked down the bridge we just climbed. It was very far. It must have sucked to be the lord who lived here 271 years ago having no cable car.

            After a visit to the white snakes we had lunch and headed for my dream visit… Miyajima here I come.

            We took the boat and visited the torii in the middle of the water. What a view! I wasn’t hungry, but I got grilled shish kabob squid just to taste it. The deer came to me and munched on it. His sudden bite startled me and made everyone laugh. What a pig!

            We arrived at 6:00 p.m. and the daughter in law greeted me on her knees. She had a full table with all of my favorites including ebi & kabocha and tempura. After the feast, the family had a special request: could I teach them how to French braid using the 10-year-old daughter as a model. I did many styles including the zigzag and the fish bone. They loved everything but no one could learn how to braid. They became sleepy before learning anything.

            I gave many presents, but when I went to bed, I wished I had many more. Oyasumi nasai…Good Night.  Today was the best part of the trip. – Leila

 

Sunday, June 22

            My host parents were very nice and accommodating but language was a real issue as we were to communicate via sign language & 1-2 word sentences. We went to the island, which was very nice, and had tempura & sukiyaki. I had a good time but need my privacy & down time and I always felt like I was on stage. – Rich

 

Monday, June 23

            Today we reflected on home stay visits and shared stories on the train. I have mixed emotions of happy and sad. My family was so eager to show me as much as they could and to convey a hope for peaceful relations. My host “sister” (Mother) as we joked was my same age. We shared so many similarities – same years of marriage (30!) 3 children, and believe it or not – same BIRTHDAY!!! AMAZING!!! We had a wonderful traditional dinner after shopping at the market on the way home. Kikuko had me pick sashimi and fruit.  I picked tuna and apples & watermelon. She picked out sushi – Dinner

was great! Lots of BEER! Kenshi’s parents lived with them and they were so cute – very interested in “watching” my every move and delight – and posing for “family portrait.”

            After dinner we broke out the karaoke and Kenshi has a great voice – says he is a Hawaiian singer – loves Elvis and Paul Anka to name two. I gave them a CD of Jo Dee Messing and Kikoku wanted to follow every word from the booklet. Karaoke hooked up to the TV with words, just like in a bar – it was funny and lively. Later, Kenshi got serious and gave me a video of the testimony of his father – a survivor of the A-bomb where he lost his parents. It was in Japanese so I will have it translated and share it with others in my group. I was very touched. Kikuko will be coming to Ohio next year for a home stay to “experience” English outside of conversation class and tourist experience.

            Saturday’s family trip included the beautiful Miyajima Island.  We actually witnessed a wedding in progress in the shrine. I felt like a guest – took pictures even. We looked for shells at the foot of the Tori in the water and let baby crabs crawl on our hands – the tide was out! The ferry ride was great. I bought a piece of pottery with symbolic maple leaf & we ate at a cake restaurant then had ice cream as well as eel-on-a-stick. I wish I had not asked what it was. Probably would have enjoyed more but it was pretty good. Afternoon – we drove along coastline to Iwakuni to see the 5 span bridge that is so famous. It was awesome and is refurbished regularly. Men were fishing on the surf and under the bridge with long bamboo poles. We visited museums, gardens, and a castle on top of the mountain overlooking the river. Up to the top by cable car! We ate at a fancy restaurant (Chinese) by the river. Fabulous photo opportunities. It was great; I recognized the bridge from Japanese paintings. We returned home exhausted but took a walk. Kenshi said we “needed to get hungry” (which I was not), so we walked the neighborhood and he explained history. We climbed 100 steps (steep) of a beautiful shrine – made a wish, collected our fortunes – and went home to eat another beautiful meal prepared by Kikue (grandmother) and Kikuko! I slept in a traditional tatami room on a very comfortable futon pad – slept like a baby both nights.

            Parting was sweet sorrow! I hope to see Kikuko next year when she comes to Ohio. I will bring her to my home for a visit. She will be very near Sam. – Nancy

 

Monday, June 23

            My host mother dropped me off at the station today. It was very sad to say good-bye. I was lucky to have such a wonderful family – mother to care for me. She speaks English very well and made it easy for me to communicate. She is a modern housewife with a job outside the house. She is an English teacher. Her husband owns company condo’s business. They have three older children. She really took care of me and I really appreciate all that she did – this has really been the best part of the trip. Today we are going to National Museum of Ethnology, which is in Osaka. We are taking the bullet train back north.  – Sam

 

Monday, June 23

            My host mother dropped me off at the station to join my group. We said our good-byes and now back to the subway, train, bus and whatever mode of transportation.

            I remembered that our journey from Hiroshima to Osaka was going to take 7 hours, so I bought several yogurts to eat. I bought 7 to be exact, which seemed to be a good number.

            The travel time turns out to be 2 hours and not 7.  The day before I had asked Mike how long the trip would be and he replied, “Several hours” but I heard 7. Those damn yogurts were going to be lugged as if I didn’t have enough carry on. Call me the mule of Osaka. We arrived. Fortunately we were led to lockers at the station. Being yen savvy, I splurged in the cheapest one at 300Y. Just I as shut the door; I remembered the yogurts, the camera and the umbrella. I was really hungry, but if I opened the lockers, I would have to deposit another 300Y. I left the yogurts behind, but I could taste each as my tummy rumbled all the way. We got on the train/subway. Hell, I can’t tell the difference, they all go on rails and eat Yens like it was monopoly money. There were no seats, so I sat with my back facing the group.

                Suddenly I stopped hearing English. OH SHIT, they’re gone! I looked just to see them disappear in the crowd. I ran to the door as it was closing. I pried it open, but it was like struggling with a dentist. The big door slammed shut, the train took off. I yelled, “Wait, John…HELP!” Everyone glanced at me and resumed their tasks of reading, talking, or whatever they were doing. My group didn’t hear me at all.  Next stop seemed endless. The train didn’t seem to ever stop again. I got out finally. I waited for the next train and again it seemed like an eternity. I went to where I had last seen my group. I was sure they would be there waiting for me. Like my need for 7 yogurts, I was wrong again. The station was small, but I didn’t know if the group had gone out, or made another connection. Should I hold on to my train ticket?  Lost at the station. No Yen! No phone numbers! No red book! No English speakers!

 

            I decided to get out of the station, but keep the ticket. I saw a passage open and I went through without putting my ticket through the slot, as if I didn’t have enough sagas for the day, the gate slammed shut at my knees and alarm system went off. Great! Security came and I asked for the phone. They looked at me and pointed to the phones as if I didn’t need to leave the station for phones. There were plenty where I had come from.

             I went to the phone; I didn’t have coins, the red book or the cell #’s. I decided to call my family in the U.S. since they have a copy of the red book. I planned to ask for the hotel name and I could go there. The phones were not for international calls. I threw myself on a chair and sat in a total despair. I was sure by now that no one knows I was missing. I didn’t look forward to having my own room tonight, because it was a sure way to be forgotten.

            I hope my yogurt would stink so bad, maybe they will remember me. Anne showed up. I was rescued. There’s a Buddha after all!!!  - Leila

 

Monday, June 23, part 2

            We arrived at the Ethnology Museum. The place is huge but I toured the facility in 10 minutes. I focused on my whereabouts to the distance of the nearest group member.

            I was unsure of many things the future holds for me, will a hurricane hit the island, and will I be safe? But one thing I know: I will NOT get lost. After the museum closed we headed for the lockers. (Otherwise known as the yogurt headquarters.) And of course it rained and it poured.  Naturally because the umbrella is safe and dry at YH (Yogurt Headquarters), I prayed that the yogurt didn’t stink, cause I’m going with my group and I only mentioned that I merely had a couple of yogurts in the locker.

            I have one super small purse. I run my fingers for the key to access YH and there’s no key. GREAT! Nancy took the purse away and searched and there’s no key. It would cost be 15,000Y. I resigned to accepting whatever crisis. Monopoly Day for Leila

 

-         No key to the locker

-          Don’t go to Broadway

-          Pay 15,000Y

 

I opened my purse to pay the 15,000Y for the key replacement but I found the key in the seam. I wanted this day to be over. FAT CHANCE!!!

 

This day will be enhanced with:

 

A.     Bento Box

B.     Group reflection

C.     After dinner group discussion

D.     Journal writing

E.      All of the above suck package

 

--- Stinking evening continued for Leila

           

            I had a chance to freshen up before dinner. I was so beat and exhausted I wouldn’t exert effort to walk from shower to suitcase. I decided to wash my hair with Japanese shampoo.

            Around dinner I could see my hair expand. It became so fluffy it was like a “loofah” those mops at the end of long stick used to clean cobwebs from high corners.

            I rushed to my room after dinner to rewash my hair. My room was so far, I was sure it was at a different prefecture from my group.

            I went to bed and for the first time I was grateful and thankful for the group reflection, Bento Box and group discussion because I was with with the company of my group.

            No, I am not thankful for the journal!!! – Leila

 

Tuesday, June 24

            I don’t know how I got this thing again but I did so let me tell you about today. We visited 3 schools 1 hour south of Osaka. 1st stop, Nagano Junior High School – what struck me first was taking my shoes off to enter the building. Also, no air so a dress down code had been issued by the state. We were welcomed with green tea and a meeting very interesting. We went to an English class and then a history class. Next we went to an elementary school – the kids were so cute. Lunch was amazing. They all served themselves and were very organized. Finally, the high school was very clean! Really fun to see kids, like in the U.S. not paying attention, sleeping, fixing their hair, ECT. We had a long discussion with the principal and went to see the extra curriculum.

            Finally dinner – make your own tempura and boy was it fun! All you can eat & drink. On the way home Osaka Castle – Great Evening – Interesting Day.  – Sam

 

Tuesday, June 24

The all you can cook/eat tempura dinner

 

I am using the RD pen to write this journal. I hope that I don’t get caught using it. I was supposed to give it to my host family but having brought some expensive presents the pen seemed rinky-dink to me. I didn’t have the courage to hold it with both hands and give it to them. Sorry EASC.

 

Dinner Time

 

I sat with Nancy and her two Japanese guests, Sam and Steve. We started out preparing our Tempura with the ardent skills of a chef at work. Holding the stick, we slipped the food in the batter and then dipped it in another bowl that had some powder looking items. Gently we lowered the stick into the heated oil and Sam kept a watchful eye on timing “2 minutes!” that was our clue to pull the stick out. One more dip into a wide selection of Tempura sauce voile the best dinner that no shogun or samurai ever had.

            Shortly after that, our precision cooking method turned into expert eyeballing technique provided by Leila. Each of us insisted on picking a specific item. Steve likes the pepper, Sam enjoyed the shrimp and I opted for the squid. But once the sticks were out of the oil we could not identify the item covered with golden batter. We were never sure what we were eating, but whatever it was it had a uniform tempura sauce taste and that was satisfying to our palates, for most of the time.

            Steve lost count on how many glasses of sake he had ordered. He declared that his doctor had prescribed him one glass per hour, but it was obvious that he was overdosing.

            Nancy left for tempura refill and hoped that Steve would keep an eye on her food in the hot oil. When she returned, she asked, “Steve, did you do me?” We all laughed knowing what she meant. She drinks beer like a German at Oktoberfest.

            Nancy got presents from her Japanese guests and I thanked them as if they were for me. They laughed a lot. At the end our guide came to us and said it was time to go. Steve got up and shook his hand and sat back down guzzling his sake. The guide replied, “No, I meant it’s time for everyone to go.” Every time I remember that scene I laugh so much.

            After dinner we headed for the subway, which was extremely crowded. Just to get the group on the counting tradition again, I kept saying, “One.” Barbara who was number one kept insisting that she was number one. By the end, I was a definite pain the neck, but no one is getting lost on that evening.

            On the way home, the subway was packed. Steve turned around and told us that he was loaded. I asked him if he was referring to his wallet or something else.

            I had a great evening only marred by the suite I had to myself. My room in Osaka is about the size of an elevator. The TV. was hooked on the wall at the end of the bed. If it would have fallen it would have landed on my feet. By now, I looked forward to sharing a room. I look forward to Okinawa. – Leila

 

Nancy’s note: Dinner at the Tempura restaurant was awesome. Partly because I hosted my friends Maki and Chieko (18), both traveled an hour to be with us. I had not seen them in two years. We tried to play catch up with laughter and gorging ourselves in much anticipated yummy tempura. All you can eat. We exchanged gifts – took many pictures with our table group. Sam, Steve, and Leila joined us. Laughter reigned, beer flowed, toasts – KAMPAI! I regretfully had to say good-bye to Chieko (University Student) at the train station. Maki rode to the train station and we said our goodbyes there. We pledged to visit again in USA – Mary’s friend Junko traveled with Maki. Everyone was very lively this night. 

 

Wednesday, June 25

I deny any involvement in the previous entry.

 

            Today started as a relatively eventless day. Wrap up of Osaka and orientation of Okinawa, bus ride to the airport, plane to Naha, and check in. Little did I know that I was about to enter the “Twilight Zone.”  I don’t know where to start or how in depth to go, but I will give a brief summarization of the night with Godzilla! Jacque accompanied the group to the Matsunashita Teahouse of the August Moon and then the fun began.

v     Being swindled out of 3500 Yen for the rice brandy (OUCH!)

v     Witnessing Anne being reprimanded by our lovely host for the improper way to hold her bowl. (-:

v     The presentation of the spring-loaded chopsticks to Mike.

v     Being coerced into making a fool of myself on stage with the Kabuki cast.

v     Listening to the history of Okinawa from a true Native Islander.

v     The constant annoyance of being interrupted while being engaged in conversation with the group.

v     Watching Barb get her hand slapped for leaving chopsticks in the bowl.

 

I could go on but it hurts my head to recount the events. Actually, it was a fun evening and allowed for a lot of conversation for I’m sure, for many years to come. – Steve

                                                                                                               

P.S. I would like to own some shares of Toto.           

 

               

Wednesday, June 25

“The Most Bestest”

 

Our host for our first dinner in Okinawa made it clear she was an elite. She is the only trilingual; she is the LAST of the bloodline, etc. She moved around the table like a substitute teacher trying to prove herself. If looks could kill, I would have been stiff in the shape of my chair.

            She asked us to perform on stage. No one dare saying no. If I were asked to cluck or act like a moose, I would have complied. I saw Mike on stage. I became concerned when he appeared to be having a spasm, but when I saw his arms lift in the air as if he was trying to take off, I realized that he was attempting to dance. I asked her a question and the experience was like she was a fly swatter and I was a bug. WHACK!!!

            We all had a turn of getting reprimanded for asking intelligent, appropriate, or concise questions. – Leila

 

 

Thursday, June 26

            Welcome to the true Island of Okinawa today! After our abrupt entry yesterday, today we got a feel for the “gentler” side of the island. With Jacque taking over role of troop leader, Mary moved to the back of the bus and let the day be one to be enjoyed. We left Naha bright and early – heading north on route 58. We met with the middle and high school staff in Kadena. Both schools were well equipped and very clean. The principal and staff of each were so gracious and open to new ideas. I thought it showed a great deal of character for them to ask us to suggest ways to improve. I don’t think it is an easy thing for educators to do. We stopped for lunch very close to an air force base. Along with seeing fighter jets take off and land, we were able to hear the roar that these people hear everyday. A lot of the discussion had to do with the military presence on this island and how out of proportion Okinawa’s numbers were with the rest of Japan. As we continue north, we got out of the city-mode and started seeing more of the rural part of the island. The scenery was striking! On one side you have the coastline and on the other side you have the mountains that were covered with all kinds of trees. It was truly beautiful. We stopped at one point where you could see the beach where American forces came ashore. It was such a peaceful place; it was hard to imagine that 58 years ago it was a place of horror. Our tour guide told us that he brings a lot of tourists to this same spot. Many of these are groups of American soldiers who landed here. He also brings groups of Japanese soldiers. Such fear had to be a defining point in their lives. We continued north enjoying the scenery and sharing our tidbits on Okinawa culture. Facts varied from personal stories to statistics on animals and farming. Everyone came up with something unique. Our travel took us to the remains of Nakijin Castle. It was quite striking and another great view. We acquired another large hat for our trip home.  We returned to the hotel rather late so everyone took off in various directions. I’m glad we got out of the city today and had an opportunity to see some of the natural beauty of Okinawa.  – Mary 

 

 

 

Friday, June 27

            Today we continued our exploration of Okinawa’s history and cultural. Our first stop was the U.S. Marine Corps. We received a military explanation for the need of the bases on Okinawa and how the U.S. military was responding to the tension created by the military being here. We then received another similar briefing by the US Consul General. Both briefings were similar and represented the U.S. point of view about the U.S. role here

Personally, I am not sure how I feel about the bases being here.  The bases are an intrusive sign of U.S. military might. Would we ever tolerate this in our country? No one was willing to question why we have such a foreign policy. Do we need to control the world order? According to a military briefing, it was part of our treaty obligation and the need to promote stability in the region. Our control has certainly benefited our citizens. We have cheap gas, cheap clothes, constant supplies of water and electricity. I wonder how many American anti-base activists would be willing to give up our luxuries made possible by our military might.

            Is the best way to achieve peace to prepare for war? I know I have benefited from the military might.  But I know the ugly nature of it since I have come to Okinawa. I guess I will always struggle with these ideas. Maybe the best solution will be created by gradual slow change instituted by global change and Okinawan pressure.

Our group is planning our last night together. We have a great song planned, written by Barb (with help from the group). I can’t believe the trip is almost over! I miss my family and am anxious to get home but I know I will never forget this trip. – Jenny

 

 

Saturday, June 28

            Today was a busy and active day as we visited the Naval Underground Headquarters, the Himeyuri Monument, the Peace Memorial Park, Shuri-jo Castle and Okinawa World. I think I speak for most of us when I say that the Peace Memorial Park and the Himeyuri Monument were the highlight of the day. What impressed me the most was the fruitless struggle of the Japanese people after it was apparent that the battle was lost. I think it shows how people can suffer by their own prejudices and mythology. By believing that the Americans were barbarians and that it was honorable to die, many lives were needlessly lost.

            Dinner tonight was at Sam’s and was one of the best of the trip.  Similar to Benihana’s or Ron’s of Tokyo, we had some terrific seafood and steak and was a good show to boot. We sang a song of appreciation to the staff and they seemed to really enjoy it.  Well, it was a long day so I’m calling it short. – Rich

 

Sunday, June 29

            Yesterday was a great. We went on a whirlwind tour of Okinawa  - started at the former Japanese navy underground headquarters. Very interesting – especially since teaching World War II and the caves of the Japanese military.

            My favorite part of the day was the Peace Memorial. I have been very impressed with the quality of the museums!

            Today Mary and I spent the morning packing and repacking. I think we are ready to head home. Started off with the group meeting about our stay in Okinawa.

            Now headed to Tokyo – Tonight group dinner. – Sam

 

Sunday, June 29

            Well, the last night of our group dinner, I sat next to Jacques and was able to ask him his perspective on my many lingering questions. There are so many elements feeding into the issue of U.S. military presence in Okinawa and Okinawa’s position as a prefecture of Japan. How complex must the individual and group identities of Okinawa be? I am fascinated with their history and tradition of hospitality and pacifism. That they historically had no weapons and were caught in the crossfire of World War II is so tragic and I’m struck by the resilience of the Okinawan people during and after the war. The Himeyuri Cave Memorial and museum and the Okinawa Peace museum, I felt, did a wonderful job of illustrating and memorializing the courage, suffering, and survival of these people. I hope everyone read the statement of commitment of the Okinawan people against nuclear war. It’s inspiring to know that they are outspoken and active in their vision and learning from the tragic past to work for a peaceful future.

            Now were on a plane to Tokyo – everyone is tired and travel weary, yet smiling and joking. Tonight is our last group event – the farewell banquet. I am eager to go home, yet it will be sad to leave these wonderful new friends with all these great shared experiences.  – In Peace, Kathy 

 

Sunday, June 29

End of Okinawa!!!

            It was an awesome day; I found a survivor at the museum. She stood at a corner as if she were a commoner. I passed her thinking she was an employee.

            “So where’s the survivor?” I asked the tour guide. He led me to her. I ran frantically like a shepherd gathering his herd. I didn’t want her to say much until I collected most of my team. At the end I wanted to hug her, but knowing what she went through I was worried that she might think I was attempting to smother her.

            We ended the day with a superb dinner. I liked everything except the curry soup. “Rich, buddy? You wanna have soup?” He didn’t turn me down so I owe him one. On the way home I got him a Coke. When Rich and I walked together, we got a lot of stares. Probably people thought he was my bodyguard. Next time, I will wave and hand out autographs!

            At the hotel I ended the evening with an early bath. I dropped the shampoo and had none. By now, my hair has progressed to an S.O.S. scrub that has been over used. I will keep my stinking hat on. Tomorrow we go to Tokyo.

            I called my children and instructed them not to wake me up at 4:00am like they had the night before. They called me at 1:30am! – Leila

           

Sunday, June 29

Tonight we were ready to stretch our legs after all the riding earlier by plane, bus and shuttle and dragging luggage! Barb and I went collecting Kathy and Leila. Our big mistake was walking by the gift shop. Needless to say we got no further. Here come Mary, then Sam, then Steve. Mary and Mayumi and Anne. It was a great shop. Unfortunately, we had a great farewell dinner consisting of the infamous beef tongue and sashimi – and a number of other interesting dishes. The salad was colorful with the much- acclaimed uzo dressing that we pestered the waiters about. We took a group picture and the waiters posed as well. It was great. Mary rewarded us (good behavior?) with great “Must see” Japan paperbacks that we all loved. Afterwards, we clung as a group. Had beer from the vending machine and settled into the lounge for some R&R and conversation and giggles. Steve tried to serenade us on the piano but was scolded so he rejoined us quickly and sheepishly! Then the piano player – the real one – played for a while and quite beautifully as we talked. As we were winding down (or perhaps winding up?) Steve attempted to play a tune again on the piano. This recital abruptly ended as the young bar maid rushed over to LOCK the piano shut – THE NERVE!!! Most of us turned in. Steve got drafted to stay up in Tokyo with John and Mike – Barb fell asleep and I just lay there wide-eyed. I could hear my sisters next door laughing so I joined Kathy and Leila for girl talk – I don’t remember fluffing my pillow as I returned to my room about midnight – Tomorrow we leave for home. – Nancy

 

Monday, June 30

            OUCH! The alarm sound was painful this morning thanks to John, Mike, and Rich. After a wonderful farewell dinner which was full of many tearful goodbyes and memories, the above mentioned dastardly group convinced me to join their group. Actually, it was a great time because we were able to walk the streets of Narita and visit the most amazing and beautiful temple. The walk was along some of the narrowest and most beautiful streets I have ever seen and then we visited the only English pub in the area. I am signing off with my last entry (#3) of the journal and I am truly going to miss the group more than anyone can imagine. Thanks Mary, Mayumi, John, and Jacques for allowing me to spend the best 3 weeks of my life while in Japan.  – Steve

 

Monday, June 30

Reflection by Nancy

 

            Sitting in the airport among my new comrades: I am ready to go home … and I am not! I am happy… but I am sad! My bed sounds good… but hotels were exciting! Our schedule was breathless…our adrenaline flowed. We laughed, cried, shared, grumbled, exclaimed, surprised and joy, panted and puffed – walked and walked, and walked some more! Some of us ran jostling our packs and bags. Photo-ops galore. Endless shopping – one more thing…wait…I need that hat! We have to stop meeting in the gift shops – Look at this—and this—and here is something else I want. Do you take credit cards? Sumimasen? How much? How lucky were we to have great knowledgeable and diverse leaders – each had so much to contribute as well as each participant. Thank you Mayumi, Mary, Mike, John, Anne, and Jacques – for everything!

 

Monday – 5:30am Chicago time.

            Mary and Nancy are shuttlebuggin. YOU GO GIRLS! Beautiful sunset and sunrise within and hour! WOW!