Oriental Costumes
Their Designs and Colors

by Max Tilke


[Previous Page] [Next Page]
[Contents Page]

Plate 97 INDIA, BOMBAY.
Parsee garment.

This garment is a minor shape of the angarkha. The flap fixed to left of neck can be tied to the upper corner on right side of neck. The hip gores are pleated at top like the medieval albs. The super-long sleeves are pushed up into a series of small tucks . The garment is made of white shirting, and tied by ribbons.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 98 FURTHER INDIA, ASSAM.
Mikir man's poncho ("simphong").

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 99 FURTHER INDIA, BURMA.
Khasi woman's upper-garment, poncho shape ("simphongshad").

This dress is of red cloth. Ornamentation is made of pieces of cloth sewn to the garment. Silk cord is sewn on to complete the decoration, which is in the Perso-Indian style. Attached to the lower hem of the dress are long fringes made of silk cord.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

[Page 27]

Plate 100 FURTHER INDIA, BURMA.
Man's short jacket ("eng-kji", "eng tshi").

The upper part of jacket is made of white shiny calico. It is thickly wadded and quilted. Front flap is buttoned underneath. A lap is attached to the lining for this purpose. The other jacket is of fine cotton material lined with coarse stuff. This jacket is also quilted, but is provided with an ornamental embroidered edging for which yellow yarn is used.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 101 FURTHER INDIA.
Woman's jacket ("eng gji"), light cotton material. Burma.
Petticoat ("man coe"). Tonking.
The garment is of strong cotton material dyed blue and decorated with embroidery as well as pompons and tassels attached to strings of glass beads.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus., Dr. Stoenner Coll.

Plate 102 TIBET.

Man's garment of diagonally woven felted brown woollen stuff,

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 103 TIBET.
Jacket of a Leptsha man from Darjiling.

The sleeveless jacket is made of felted woollen material and lined with linen. The cut is characteristic of the Mongolian form. The leglets are made of blue linen and are fastened to the hip-belt in the ancient Persian manner. (cf. Pl. 28).

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 104 TIBET.
Lamaesque monk's garment.

It is made of rough diagonally woven wool. The cap is of woollen fabric and lined with cotton.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 105 TIBET.
Lamaesque dancing cloak. This garment is made of yellow satin decorated in the Chinese manner and lined with ramie. The sleeves ornamented with strips of silk damask and lined with red calico. The 108 cm. broad insertions at bottom of sides are likewise calico. They are folded and tucked up.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus

[Page 28]

Plate 106 TIBET AND S.-W. ASIATIC STEPPES.
Shoulder-collars.

These are made of Chinese brocade and lined with ramie. They are worn over the Lamaesque ceremonial costume. The one on right is a satin Kalmuk priest's shoulder-collar, and is slit in front. It is worn over the gown of office.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus. and in the Stavropol Mus.

Plate 107 TURKESTAN.
State coat. Bokhara officer's magnificent "chalat"

This costume is made of velvet, and lined with so-called Andidjan silk. On upper part rosettes of silver thread are embroidered. The hem edging is of yellow velvet. Across breast-part gold braid to which decorations are attached.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 108 TURKESTAN.
Sart silk overcoat lined with ramie, Tashkent.

This garment is edged along hems--as is the case with all chalats--with silk figured braid. The Turkestan garment is called "tshapán". The term chalat is used more in the sense of a gown of honour

Orig. in a private coll.

Plate 109 TURKESTAN.
Man's under-garment.

Wadded, calico, lined and lightly quilted, and made of soft patterned watered silk. The nether garments are corded at waist, the upper ones can be tied over chest.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 110 TURKESTAN.
Sarik shirt and trousers, Bokhara.

Both garments are made of strong ramie. Opening for neck and pocket edge are often hemmed with coloured trimming. Note the original cut of the seat-piece. These garments are often made of rough cotton material with narrow blue and red stripes.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 111 TURKESTAN, BOKHARA.
Woman's trousers ("izar adras").

These are made of half-silk and are moiréd.

Riding-breeches ("tshim").

Yellow silk embroidered sheep-skin breeches. The lower part trimmed with fur and lined with calico.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

[Page 29]

Plate 112 TURKESTAN.
Woman's overcoat.

Red velvet embroidered with silver thread. The lining is usually Andidjan silk. The side-pieces of women's garments are pleated over the hips onto the sleeves.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 113 TURKESTAN.
Chemise, Bohkara.

Watered Andidjan silk.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 114 TURKESTAN, SAMARCAND
Chemise.

Very light soft silk. The patterns are produced by a series of dyeing and stopping, or tying.

Orig. in a private coll.

Plate 115 TURKESTAN.
Chemise.

Bi-coloured strips sewn together. The strips are made of so-called Hissarish silk. They are 32 cm wide and made of coarse light red and violet shot half-silk.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 116

and

Plate 117

TURKESTAN,BOKHARA.
Woman's walking cloak ("tarantshi alatsha").

Front and back view. The cloak consists of strong finished striped cotton material, and is lined with flowered calico. A coloured strip of cotton cloth is sewn onto inner edge of cloak. The seams are trimmed with silk edgings. The opening for neck is worn on the head. The super long decorative sleeves hang loosely down the back, and are only joined at the ends. A stiff veil ("tshashpant") made of woven horsehair covers the face of Sart women when out of doors.

Origs. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 118 CHINESE TURKESTAN, YARKAND OR KHOTAN.
Wadded overcoat, "tshapán".

Made of 19 cm wide half-silk known as "maceru". The lining is coarse coton dyed blue, so-called "eastern stuff". The garment is done up in the Turco-Mongolian manner by means of cords with loops and brass buttons. The high collar is trimmed with black cord.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

[Page 30]

Plate 119 CHINESE TURKESTAN, YARKAND.
Woman's walking dress ("kham tshapan").

This black dress, with its green hem, is made of strong shiny calico. The lining is of rough blue cotton. The galloons on bodice are made of silk braid.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 120 CHINESE TURKESTAN, KUTCHA.
Woman's garment.

Light cotton, damask-like interwoven with light silk in Chinese patterns. The embroidery is red and green silk adapted to Persian style. The galloons around collar and front opening are cut out of Persian brocade.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 121 CHINESE TURKESTAN, KUTCHA.
Undergarment for women.

Chinese silk with coloured embroidery in the Chinese style. The opening for neck can be done up on each side by strings. (cf. Pl. 28.)

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 122 CHINESE TURKESTAN.
Dzungarian woman's over-garment.

Satin with silk lining; embroidered in the Chinese style, but also provided with slightly curved cord decoration as is customary with Turkish peoples. Seam at back.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

Plate 123 CHINA.
Man's coat ("ha-ol").

Unlined silk, narrow sleeves, closed under right arm.

Sleeveless jacket for men.

Black tulle-like and ornamented material which permits the light-blue linen to show through the texture. All Chinese garments have a seam in the middle of the front and back pieces.

Man's summer hat.

Origs. Tilke Coll.

Plate 124 CHINA.
Over-jacket worn by women of the upper-classes.

Silk with interwoven tapestry-like patterns. Trimmings of gold fabric. Round collar, and breast-flap. Lining apple-green silk.

Orig. in E. Fritsche's China goods store. Wilhelm Str. Berlin

[Page 31]

Plate 125 CHINA.
Sleeveless jacket.

Closed vertically in front in Turco-Mongolian style; blue cotton stuff. The circular piece of material with lettering is made of varnished shirting. These jackets are worn by officials and military persons.

Men's trousers.

Black strong silk with cotton waist-belt Men's caps.

Black satin.

Tilke Coll.

Plate 126 JAPAN.
Kimono, Coat for men.

Patterned half-silk with soft silk lining. The kimono is worn with a belt. Vertical seam down middle of back.

Tilke Coll.

Plate 127 JAPAN.
Man's over-jacket ("haori").

Slightly wadded. Half-silk, checked pattern, silk crape lining. The garment is fastened round the body with plaited silk cords. The sleeves are used as pockets. Back seam.

Tilke Coll.

Plate 128 JAPAN, SAGHALIEN.
Aino man's dress ("atooshi"").

Made of the bark of the atooshi tree cut into thin strips, and woven to dress material on a primitive loom.

Trimming: strips of coarse cotton stuff interwoven with ornamental thread lines.

The front part of garment is shown on plate, and the back part of another one. Note the middle seam in back.

Orig. in Berlin Ethnogr. Mus.

[Page 32]


[Previous Page] [Next Page]
[Contents Page]