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Black and White

What’s black and white and fab all over? The windows at the Sage Collection designed by R309 Visual Merchandising students! R309: Strategies in Retail Promotion, taught by Professor Ashley Hasty in the Department of Apparel Merchandising and Interior Design, is an introductory course that presents design elements and principles through the lens of visual display.

Students were challenged to produce an effective and eye-catching mini-exhibition utilizing Sage Collection artifacts organized around a black-and-white theme. The exhibit features jewelry, purses, fans, hats, gloves, scarves, and shoes, as well as two jackets by Indiana native Bill Blass and French designer Philippe Venet. The clothing examples exploit the very best qualities of positive and negative space in design. The Venet jacket is a masterful example of tailoring in double-face wool, with organic, ovoid-shaped black inset panels placed off-kilter on the jacket fronts, in contrast to the regular black-and-white striped effect on the sleeves. The loose-fitting, kimono-like silk satin jacket from Blass is a study in line—thick/thin, straight/curved, and horizontal/vertical.

Associated with mourning customs, clerical, academic, and ceremonial dress, the color black has been an essential part of every woman’s wardrobe only after World War I. Queen Victoria’s long period of visible mourning following the death of her beloved Prince Albert in 1861, the practicality of the dark color in an industrial, urban landscape, and the stylish ensembles available to the bereaved during The Great War all contributed to the acceptance of black as a viable everyday color option. Connotations of death, disaster, wickedness, witches, and violence have long been linked to black, which continues in our vocabulary today as a modifier in common phrases with negative overtones: black sheep, blackmail, black-hearted, blackball, blacklist.

Black’s opposite, white, is viewed as the color of innocence, purity, and new beginnings, associated most often with wedding gowns, and christening and baptismal dresses. However, in some cultures, such as China, white, not black, is the color of mourning. In 1938, the death of Queen Elizabeth’s mother five days before a critically important state visit to France to secure an alliance between the two nations when Naziism was looming on the horizon forced designer Norman Hartnell to re-design a colorful 30-piece wardrobe he had created for the state visit. The trip was postponed three weeks, and Hartnell and his workshop created a completely new white wardrobe for Queen Elizabeth (later the Queen Mother). This all-white wardrobe allowed Queen Elizabeth to pay her respects to her late mother, and was thought to be more appropriate to the visit’s purpose and the July heat. The romantic and fashionable white dresses designed by Hartnell won over the French, and secured Hartnell his place as the royal dressmaker to the Queen.

Mendes, Valerie. Dressed in Black. London: V&A Publications, 1999.

Reynolds, Nigel. "Royal Fashions that won over Paris go on display." The Telegraph. July 27, 2005.

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